Handbook Of Cosmetic Science And Technology

ISBN: 0-8247-0292-1 This book is printed on acid-free paper. Headquarters Marcel Dekker, Inc. 270 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016 tel: 212-696-9000; fax: 212-685-4540 Eastern Hemisphere Distribution Marcel Dekker AG Hutgasse 4, Postfach 812, CH-4001 Basel, Switzerland tel: 41-61-261-8482; fax: 41-61-261-8896 World Wide Web http:/ /www.dekker.com The publisher offers discounts on this book when ordered in bulk quantities. For more information, write to Special Sales/Professional Marketing at the headquarters address above. Copyright 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Current printing (last digit): 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Preface Cosmetic composition and formulation are becoming increasingly complex, and cosmetic ingredients more sophisticated and functional, while laws and regulations impose more constraints on the cosmetic scientist and manufacturer. The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology reviews in a single volume the multiple facets of the cosmetic field and provides the reader with an easy-to-access information source. This handbook covers topics as varied as the physiology of the potential targets of cosmetics, safety, legal and regulatory considerations throughout the world, cosmetic ingredients, vehicles and finished products, and new delivery systems, as well as microbiology and safety and efficacy testing. To achieve our goal, we, the editors, requested the contributions of expert scientists from academic dermatology and dermato-cosmetics, the cosmetics industry, ingredients and raw materials producers, and regulatory agencies. Because cosmetology is universal, while having some regional specificity, those authors were selected on a broad geographical basis, with some coming from the United States, Europe, Japan, and Australia. They share in their chapters not only their experience and knowledge but also new information and their expert views regarding the future. We thank the authors for their high dedication, which permitted us to make this handbook a review of the state of the art in cosmetology in the new millennium. The staff of Marcel Dekker, Inc., played a great role in the production of the handbook, ensuring on a day-to-day basis the contact between the editors and the authors. Our thanks especially go to Sandra Beberman, Jane Roh, and Moraima Suarez for their constant and excellent help. Finally, we encourage our readership to send us their comments and suggestions on what should be modified or considered in future editions. Andre´ O. Barel Marc Paye Howard I. Maibach iii Contents Preface Contributors Part 1 iii xi INTRODUCTION 1. Introduction Andre´ O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach 1 2. Definition of Cosmetics Stanley R. Milstein, John E. Bailey, and Allen R. Halper 5 Part 2 TARGET ORGANS FOR COSMETIC PRODUCTS 3. The Microscopic Structure of the Epidermis and Its Derivatives Joel J. Elias 19 4. The Normal Nail Josette Andre´ 29 5. Hair Ghassan Shaker and Dominique Van Neste 35 Part 3 SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS 6. Safety Terminology Ai-Lean Chew and Howard I. M