Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, And High

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E-Book Overview

Big, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers. Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing. Illustrated throughout with full-color photos.

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E-Book Information

• Year: 1,999

• Edition: 1st

• Pages: 238

• Pages In File: 236

• Language: English

• Topic: 289

• Issue: до 2011-08

• Identifier: 0898866545,9780898866544

• Ddc: 796.52/2

• Lcc: GV200 .T95 1999

• Org File Size: 76,889,344

• Extension: pdf

• Tags: Физическая культура и спорт Альпинизм

• Toc: Front Cover......Page 1 Contents......Page 6 Foreword......Page 8 Preface......Page 12 Introduction......Page 14 PART I : APPROACH......Page 17 1 Attitude and Character......Page 18 -- Failure --......Page 26 PART II : TRAINING......Page 28 2 Psychological Training......Page 29 3 Physical Training : A Foundation......Page 36 4 Training : Strength......Page 40 5 Training : Endurance......Page 45 -- Alpine Solo - John Bouchard --......Page 59 6 Nutrition......Page 62 -- Mistake on Mount Huntington --......Page 75 PART III : EQUIPMENT......Page 77 7 Clothing......Page 78 -- Deprivation on Mount Hunter --......Page 94 -- Light and Fast --......Page 96 -- A Simple Mistake --......Page 99 8 Gear......Page 100 -- Why Helmets are a Good Idea --......Page 114 -- When Maps Lie --......Page 116 9 Protection......Page 117 PART IV ; TECHNIQUE......Page 132 10 Staying Alive......Page 133 11 Partners......Page 146 -- Khan Tengri Partner : A Cautionary Tale --......Page 150 12 Going Up......Page 153 -- Resourcefulness --......Page 179 13 Bivouacs......Page 180 -- Ordeal on Everest --......Page 193 -- A Lowe Night --......Page 195 -- A 43-Hour Day : Mount Hunter : May 17 - 19 1994......Page 198 14 Going Down......Page 200 -- Alone on The Charmoz --......Page 209 -- Annapurna Epic --......Page 211 -- Down the Rupal Face --......Page 213 Apologia......Page 217 Thanks......Page 220 Appendix 1 - Audacity......Page 222 Appendix 2 - Suggested Reading......Page 227 Index......Page 230