Mite Cycle , Diy Motorcycle Motocycle Plan Plans

MITE CYCLE You'll need only an "A" ration to run this midget motorcycle. by R. G. Fisher T The Mite Cycle, with its builder, is shown above. A small one-cylinder engine provides the motive power. his little motorcycle has been designed . to operate on wartime rations! Its construction is simple and light, but it is surprisingly practical and will carry a 250-lb. passenger without complaining. A 5/8-h.p. engine whips it along at a 25-m.p.h. clip and as for gas consumption—one gallon for every 120 miles, and we doubt if there's another motorcycle that can do better than that. The Mite Cycle shown here was built by the author at a total cost of $50. It weighs 85 lbs. and is powered by a Briggs and Stratton engine. All unnecessary frills were forgotten in its construction, and the only tools used were a small lathe, a hack saw and a welding torch. The frame, being the foundation of the project, should be built first. It is made of salvaged aircraft streamline tubing. 2-1/2"x.035 wall, procurable from any airport where small planes are repaired. These dimensions need not be adhered to exactly as a slightly larger or smaller tubing, or even a plain round tubing of 1-1/8"x.035 wall, is satisfactory. After procuring the tubing make a full-size drawing of the frame on the shop floor and cut the pieces to the angles and lengths given, fitting them to the drawing as you go. After this is completed, build the two lower frame pieces. The base tube (11-1/2") is spotted to the forward tube going up to the fork neck and also to the rear tube going to the rear wheel hangers. Three spreaders are required and these are cut 4" long from 1" o.d. .035 wall tubing; two of these are located bet-ween the lower frame sides and spotted into position as noted. The forward tubes are cut on the insides and bent together to form the V as shown in the bottom view, then welded. The upper rear tubes then are laid together and the third spreader is located 9-3/4" c.c. to the rear of the taper terminating point and welded into position. These tubes «f» The brake plate, shown in the diagram below, is installed as above. Brake band is anchored at bottom. Slotted hole allows for adjustment of the drive belt. 86 are cut on the inside 1/2" forward of the spreader and bent to form the taper as shown in the top view. The forward tube is located and welded to the upper rear tubes. The lower frame now is set on the floor and the uprights located and spotted, the upper frame is placed into position on top and spotted, the frames are welded together at the rear wheel hangers and welding of the whole frame proceeds, work being carried forward and each section completed as it is reached. Rear wheel hangers are cut out of 3/16" cold rolled steel, cut long enough to extend inside the frame 1", and after joggling, they are inserted and leveled. It is important that the hangers are level, otherwise the Cycle will not balance; when level they are brazed in position. Before attaching the fork neck, it is necessary to procure the standard bicycle bearings and races that are used in the neck. A piece of 1-1/2"X.125 wall tubing is cut 6-1/2" long and each end is bored to take the races. A line is drawn on the floor, the frame is placed level on the floor straddling the line and a plumb line is then dropped from the center line of the frame at the rear wheel hangers to the line. Another plumb bob is attached to the fork neck, and the fork neck is spotted into position while both bobs are on the line. Then the frame is brazed to the neck, mak