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a, be F I G . Ι . -DIAGRAM OF HAIR ROOT AND FOLLICLE. F I G . 2.—DIAGRAM OF HAIR SHAFT. (a) Outer horny layer of epidermis ; (b) Inner, or Malpighian, layer of epidermis ; (c) M o u t h of follicle ; (d) Papilla ; (e) Capillaries ; ( / ) H a i r bulb ; (g) Sebaceous gland. (a) Medulla ; (b) Cortex ; (c) Cuticle. Frontispiece. HAIR-DYES AND HAIR-DYEING CHEMISTRY AND TECHNIQUE Being a Second Edition of "BLONDE OR BRUNETTE ? " By H. STANLEY REDGROVE B . S c , F.I.C., F.R.H.S. Author of ·· Scent and All About It," ** The Cream of Beauty,*' etc. and GILBERT A . FOAN Secretary of the Hairdressers' Parliamentary Committee Ltd., and Parliamentary Secretary to the Hairdressers' Registration Council With Eight Plates and numerous Illustrations in the Text LONDON W I L L I A M HEINEMANN (MEDICAL BOOKS) LTD. 1934 Printed in Great Britain. While some bring leaves of henna, to imbue The fingers' ends with a bright roseate hue, So bright, that in the mirror's depth they seem Like tips of coral branches in the stream ; And others mix the Kohol's jetty dye To give that long, dark languish to the eye Which makes the maids, whom kings are proud to cull From fair Circassian vales, so beautiful ! THOMAS MOORE. PREFACE HAIR-DYEING is a legitimate and useful art. If this book should come into the hands of any who think otherwise, we refer them to the section headed " The Ethics and esthetics of Hair-Dyeing.'' Like all arts, it has a scientific basis ; but, unfortunately, this has not, speaking generally, received the attention from chemists that it deserves. Indeed, one might well call Hair-dyeing the Cinderella of applied chemistry. There is little literature on Hair-dyeing, and what does exist, apart from a very few books and articles, is of a rather unsatisfactory character, being in some cases positively misleading. In the making of this book, a chemist and a practical hairdresser have collaborated, and we believe that we have produced the most complete treatise on the subject which has been written in any language, and one, moreover, which will fill a very real need. We offer it to the general reader, to the hairdresser and beauty-culturist, and to the chemist. T o the first two we say : Forgive us for some scientific technicalities, which we have indeed tried to make as simple as possible. T o the last we say : Think of the first two and forgive us for much of what is, to you, uninteresting, elementary stuff. The general reader, we think, may be interested to be initiated into the mysteries of a little-known art. He (or she) may even be interested because of some slight defect in the colouring of his (or her) own hair . . . a slight greyness, it may be. The chemist, we hope, will be stimulated to undertake muchneeded research in what is a very useful and interesting branch of applied chemistry. And, finally, to the hairdresser let us say : It is up to you, not only to master the technique of this art, but also thoroughly to understand the scientific principles underlying it. By this means, and by this means alone, will vii PREFACE viii you be able to give your clients complete satisfaction. And by this means will you reap, not only the pleasure which comes from increased and profitable business, but also that of knowing that you are helping to increase the amount of Beauty in the world. We desire to acknowledge our indebtedness to the Director of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew ; Messrs. Broux & Sons, of Paris ; M . E . Long, of Paris ; Messrs. the Camomile Tonic Co., of London ; Messrs. POréal, of Paris, and their British agents, Messrs. Debacq and Harrop, of London ; Messrs. the Evan Williams Co., Ltd., of London ; and Messrs. Stafford Allen & Sons, Ltd., of London and Long Melford, for valuable and us